Ostatu 2011

Ostatu 2011

Grape varieties: Temp, Mazuelo, Graciano, Viura

Geographical Origin: D.O. Rioja

Producer: Ostatu

With this wine, Ostatu have not only produced an excellent Maceración Carbónica, but they’ve also given it a personal twist. The first hint is the grape varieties that have been used: apart from the typical Tempranillo and Viura, Mazuelo and Graciano are present. Both are grapes that possess excellent acidity and are thus more commonly associated with wines that are to be aged.

In this case there’s an explosively perfumed nose along with the expected (but nonetheless delightful) bubble gum, touch of yoghurt and tingly spritz on the tongue. Meanwhile, a delicious fresh cherry bite runs through the fruit. Together with the wine’s deep colour and violet rim, this tells us we’ve encountered the wild beauty of youth.

The Graciano and Mazuelo definitely lend it more acidity and seriousness than is normally expected of a Maceración Carbónica, but I love this Ostatu for its reinvention of the genre. To be lingered over rather than guzzled, it invites food. I’ll be taking up the offer.

Viña Real Gran Reserva 1991

Viña Real Gran Reserva 1991

Grape varieties: Graciano, Tempranillo, Mazuelo, Garnacha

Geographical Origin: D.O. Rioja

Producer: Compañía Vinícola del Norte de España (CUNE)

On opening this Viña Real, the first impression is that it needs a good decant. Cedar wood and cigar box dominate on an initial sniff – a typical indicator of classical Rioja. Fruit is itching to get out from behind; time and air will facilitate the process.

A Gran Reserva that might be over twenty years old, it still shows a dark core with only slight bricking at the edge. In other words, it’s here for the long haul. Following the afore-mentioned decant, an elegant, dagger-like thrust of ethereal fruit emerges. Never a mouth-filling fruit bomb, its tart purity dances over the tongue.

This is high-class stuff, layer upon layer of complexity building on the palate. There are hints of orange peel and savoury, meaty notes of beef stock, all combined with grippy tannins that just beg for a steak alongside. As for the length, well I can still taste it a couple of days later!

The 1991 vintage is obviously slap-bang in the middle of its drinking window, although that window’s going to be open for a fair time yet, say 30 years! If you can’t wait so long, it’s terrific right now.