Wednesday, 4 September 2013

Artadi Pagos Viejos 2009

Artadi Pagos Viejos 2009
Grape varieties: Tempranillo
Geographical Origin: D.O. Rioja
Producer: Bodegas y ViƱedos Artadi

Okay, so I know it’s infanticide, but just for investigative purposes I opened my first bottle of Artadi Pagos Viejos 2009 last week.

The wine is a dark, deep, impenetrable purple colour, indicating that it’s a long way from being open for business. Its nose, meanwhile, is also intense and tightly wound. There are hints of roasted coffee, cedar wood and pure fruit on the nose, but it doesn’t open up fully – this will evolve into something far more giving over the next few years.

As for the mouth feel, there are still inevitable rough edges to the tannins on entry, but the mid-palate fills out silkily and the finish goes on and on. This Pagos Viejos combines intense (never jammy or acidic) fruits of the forest with liquorice, a spot of yoghurt and then toffee on the aftertaste.

The fruit and oak are already knitting together, but this wine will continue to grow, flesh out and build its complexities. It’s too well-balanced to be a flabby fruit bomb, but it’s certainly a hedonistic expression of Rioja in a modern idiom. Enjoy now. Enjoy more in the future!