Algueira Merenzao 2009
Grape variety: Merenzao
Geographical origin: D.O. Ribeira Sacra
Producer: Adega Algueira
Algueira Merenzao 2009 shows us
exactly what critics mean when they refer to terroir. By this, I mean that you can feel the influence of the
rocky soils and Atlantic breezes of the Ribeira Sacra region in every drop.
What’s more, it’s made from a local grape variety – Merenzao – which possesses
wonderful potential for ageing.
This wine is never full-on.
Instead, it’s so layered with subtle complexities that I could make notes all
day – different hints come out with every sip.
The nose is lined with damp slate
that’s covered in crushed raw blackcurrants. These are joined by a smattering
of raspberries as the wine opens up. In the glass, meanwhile, there are signs
of the delicate palate to come – Alguiera Merenzao is pale, almost translucent,
with a touch of bricking at the edge.
And what about the
afore-mentioned palate? Well, it’s a lesson in the use of oak that many
winemakers would benefit from learning. The barrels never shout out above the
wine – they simply lend it extra depth and texture. An enormous acidity – very
much a sign of a long life ahead of this Algueira Merenzao – combines with
gloriously silky tannins. Fresh and
very, very long at the same time, it disappears from the bottle way too
quickly. There are more tart fruits of the forest and a hint of smoke alongside
austere minerality, while the aftertaste gently nods at spice and toast.
This Algueira Merenzao 2009 is a
fabulous example of what can be achieved in the Riberia Sacra. Although I’m
very tempted to use the term Burgundian
to sum up its qualities, that would be lazy shorthand. Algueira is capable of
standing alone in the world of fine wines.
It’s not a wine to be scored, nor
is it flashy enough to show well at tastings. Instead, it’s a wine to be
savoured again and again.
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